48 Hours under the Aurora in Whitehorse, Yukon

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photo: Yukon Tourism

By Rod Raycroft   

A visit to the city of Whitehorse in Canada’s  northern Yukon Territory already means you might be willing to go outside your comfort zone. Not only is the city above the 60th parallel, where most residents are apt to provide odd advice – particularly in autumn or winter when they might utter, “Don’t forget to look up tonight. No really, look at the sky tonight!”

A few hours strolling around this self-proclaimed “Wilderness City” there’s a realization that the warmth of the sun’s last rays are mirrored in its people. The Toronto Star newspaper name Whitehorse as Canada’s coolest northern city – citing it as a great place to dine, experience true northern adventure and watch mysteries unfold, while sampling everything from locally roasted coffee to eating gourmet prepared meals with a distinct northern-style.

Where to Stay

If you decided to throw caution to the wind and arrived without booking a room,  head downtown, a short $14 cab ride to Main Street. Yes its named Main Street. The  Best Western Gold Rush Inn ($139) or just a block away the Westmark Whitehorse Hotel ($129) in the heart of the city’s liveliest district. If you’re on a limited budget, consider the Beez Kneez Hostel, 408 Hoge Street ($30pp).

Antoinette's Restaurant, Whitehorse, Antoinette Oliphant, model release on file

photo: Tourism Yukon

First Night

There are plenty of restaurants, but just north of Main Street on Fourth Avenue is Antoinette’s, a trendy eatery where a fusion of Northern Canada meets the Caribbean. When this spicy Caribbean Queen is in the kitchen try her halibut in a coconut-tomato curry sauce on couscous topped with fresh spinach and lime. The restaurant’s decor is warm and cozy, evenings are sometimes filled with live music from local performers.

Following the advice to look up at the sky, book an Aurora tour with Northern Tales or Arctic Range (starting at $125pp). Few people have the opportunity to witness the world’s most amazing light show, the Aurora. Shuttles whisk insomniacs away from the bright lights of the city to a warm fires by a wall tent or cabin, where hot drinks and snacks aid in keeping you awake. As entertaining as Northern Lights dancing across the night sky, are the legends and science provided by their knowledgeable guides.

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photo: Rod Raycroft

Full Day

Scramble to the corner of First and Main streets for a solid cuppa-joe at Baked Café, where mugs of locally roasted coffee are served up with house-made scones or breakfast wraps. This cultural epic centre usually fills up each morning, tables are communal so don’t be shy elbow into conversations with local gold miners, environmentalists, artists, musicians as well as in-the-know travelers.

Main Street

photo: Tourism Yukon

The city boasts numerous museums and historic sites, so consider one or two in addition to the MacBride Museum ($10 adult) located on First Avenue. Among MacBride’s many buildings, are exhibits designed to showcase Yukon’s wildlife and Gold Rush history. Inspect one of the little cabins once owned by a person made famous by Robert Service in his poem the ‘Cremation of Sam McGee’. Learn about William Samuel McGee who wasn’t from Tennessee but born on a farm outside Lindsay, Ontario.

Sticking with local advice grab lunch at the Burn Toast Café on Second Avenue, try their Elk blueberry sausage ($18) or the Gnarly Barley Salad ($13). To get up close and personal with the North’s wild side take a 2.5 hour Yukon Wildlife Preserve experience tour with Tom’s Touring, to snap pictures of caribou, muskox, bison, Elk and more ($65pp).

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photo: Rod Raycroft

Its late afternoon and time to relax at ‘The Deck’ in the High Country Inn, order a pint of locally brewed ‘Grizz’ and a free basket of popcorn. Friday night crowds may include Yukon’s Premier or the City’s Mayor. While the Deck’s BBQ Burgers are great, consider a 10-minute walk to the Cork and Bull on Main Street, to enjoy a 10oz New York strip loin ($30). After dinner slide next door to the Dirty Northern Public House for some serious urbanity and nightlife, plus the chance to try locally distilled Winter Vodka and AuraGin.

Last Day

Grab an early breakfast in the hotel before hooking up with a half-day guided fishing adventure on a scenic alpine lake or stream with Up North Adventures ($180) including transportation and tackle. Remember to pack plenty of water, a hat, and wool socks – visit to Coast Mountain Sports to solve any other outdoor equipment needs.

Tram

photo: Tourism Yukon

For those who would rather relax before heading home, try a classic facial at Head to Toe ($66) to cleanse and exfoliate, plus a little massage.

Before departing on the afternoon  flight, take a photo stop at the Roadhouse Bar and Grill with its a classic northern sports bar interior and dine on the world’s best Pub burger with fries ($9) or try the Roadhouse Burger ($12).

While your legendary northern escapades are great tales to bring home, a special gift for a friend back might be a one of a-kind piece of Gold nugget jewelry and a Skookum Brand jacket to keep those memories warm.

INFO BOX:

Accommodations: Best Western Gold Rush Inn, T (867) 668-4500, http://www.goldrushinn.com; Westmark Whitehorse Hotel and Conference Centre, T (867) 393-9700, http://www.westmarkhotels.com; Bees Knees Hostel, T (867) 456-2333, http://www.bzkneez.com;

Entertainment: MacBride Museum, T (867) 667-2709, http://www.macbridemuseum.com; Tom’s Touring, T (867) 393-3848, http://www.tourtheyukon.com; Northern Tales, T (867) 667-6054, http://www.northerntales.ca; Arctic Range Adventures, T (867) 667-2209, http://www.arcticrange.com; Up North Adventures, T (867) 667-7035, http://www.upnorthadventures.com; Head to Toe, T (867) 668-2179, http://headtotoeyukon.com

Restaurants: Antoinette’s, T (867) 667-3505; Baked Café, T (867) 667- 633-6291, http://www.bakedcafe.ca; Burnt Toast Café, T (867) 393-2605, http://www.burnttoastcafe.ca; The Deck at High Country Inn, T (867) 667-4471, http://www.highcountryinn.com; Cork and Bull/Dirty Northern Public House, T (867) 633-3305, http://www.corkandbull.com; Roadhouse Bar and Grill, T (867) 668-7263;

Shops: Coast Mountain Sports, T (867) 667-4074, http://www.coastmountain.com; Skookum Brand, T (867) 993-6101, http://www.skookumbrand.com.

Getting There: Daily air access from Vancouver, British Columbia and Calgary or Edmonton, Alberta via Air North http://www.flyairnorth.com or Air Canada www.aircanada.com